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Article
Publication date: 18 June 2019

Hiroko Yokura and Sachiko Sukigara

For over a century, traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics have been popular for men’s underwear in the humid summer. Now, consumer demand is for crepe fabrics that are more…

2894

Abstract

Purpose

For over a century, traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics have been popular for men’s underwear in the humid summer. Now, consumer demand is for crepe fabrics that are more attractive, reflecting a shift in use from underwear to women’s dresses. The purpose of this paper is to clarify how the structures of the crepe and its constituent yarns affect the physical properties, handle and silhouette formability of crepe fabrics for dresses.

Design/methodology/approach

Three plain-weave gray fabrics were finished by four different processes to change their crepe structures. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured using the Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics. The primary hand values and silhouette formability of the fabrics were calculated using conversion equations based on the physical properties. The handle of the crepe fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of flared collars made of them were assessed by female students using the semantic differential method.

Findings

Comparing the fabrics made from the same gray fabric, the piqué crepe fabrics showed larger Hari (anti-drape) and Shari (crispness) than the others. The subjective hand value of softness was closely related to fabric thickness. The assessors preferred the fine piqué crepe fabrics over the wide piqué fabrics regarding both the tactile feeling of the fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of the flared collars. The attractiveness of the flared collars was dominated by the shear stiffness of the fabrics.

Originality/value

The fine piqué crepe fabric made from fine yarns produced a more preferable handle. The fine piqué fabric made from thicker yarns produced flared collars with silhouettes that are more attractive. This indicates that the fine piqué structure is a positive feature that makes the fabric suitable for various types of dresses.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2000

Hiroko Yokura and Masako Niwa

The objective hand measurement of the materials used for disposable diapers has been looked into, with consideration given to aspects of both dermatitis and comfort. The…

510

Abstract

The objective hand measurement of the materials used for disposable diapers has been looked into, with consideration given to aspects of both dermatitis and comfort. The subjective hand of the commercially produced diapers both at the leg gatherings and at the center was assessed by mothers and female students. The mechanical and surface parameters of the diapers were measured with the KES‐FB system. The equations that connect the material properties to the subjective hand were obtained by using the stepwise block‐regression analysis method. It became clear that the hand of diapers could be predicted from the physical parameters, for which the calculated error was within the range of the standard deviation of the subjective hand value of each diaper. In a dry condition, it is expected that the hand of diapers could be satisfactorily evaluated by using only the surface and compression parameters.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2002

Hiroko Yokura and Masako Niwa

The objective hand evaluation of the top sheet materials used for disposable diapers has been investigated, with consideration given to aspects of both dermatitis and comfort. The…

Abstract

The objective hand evaluation of the top sheet materials used for disposable diapers has been investigated, with consideration given to aspects of both dermatitis and comfort. The objective hand evaluation system for men's suiting has been applied to assess the hand of top sheet nonwovens. The subjective hand of the top sheet nonwovens, separated from the disposable diaper product, was assessed by female students. It became clear that the hand of the top sheet nonwovens could be predicted by the equation developed for men's suiting, for which the calculated error was within the range of the standard deviation of the subjective hand value of each product. The correlations between the hand quality of the diaper and the mechanical properties of its top sheet nonwoven were also examined. The diapers with high total hand value (THV) of their top sheet nonwovens were estimated to have good hand under both dry and wet conditions.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 14 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1999

Hiroko Yokura, Masae Nakanishi and Masako Niwa

In order to establish an objective method of evaluating pillow comfort, we investigate the relation between the sensory evaluation of pillows and the compression properties of…

Abstract

In order to establish an objective method of evaluating pillow comfort, we investigate the relation between the sensory evaluation of pillows and the compression properties of pillows. The subjective evaluation values of hardness, fitness and total comfort were correlated with the compression energy WC and the displacement Δ T at the maximum load of 50gf/cm2. Pillows which have large values of WC and Δ T were regarded as softer, fitter and more comfortable. Pillows estimated as being soft and fit showed larger contact areas and less contact pressure on the head. For the pillows which have the same flat shape, a good agreement between the individual judges was shown in the assessments of hardness and height. The shape and packing density of polyethylene pipes affected the degree of the hardness of the pillows.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 11 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 December 1996

Sachiko Sukigara, Hiroko Yokura and Masaka Niwa

Investigates the effects of moisture transfer on the compression properties and the volume change of wool, polyester and cotton futon padding by taking a series of creep…

181

Abstract

Investigates the effects of moisture transfer on the compression properties and the volume change of wool, polyester and cotton futon padding by taking a series of creep measurements under three relative humidities and obtaining master creep curves from these curves at 20°C, 65 per cent RH. Discovers that the compression phenomena for wool, which absorbed the moisture from a drying state, were different from those obtained from desorption. Reveals that crimpy fibre assembly showed more volume change and better recovery than uncrimpy fibre assembly at high water content. Notes that the fibre crimp is also an important parameter for wool fibre assembly at high water content as well as standard condition.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 8 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1994

Sachiko Sukigara, Hiroko Yokura and Masako Niwa

Non‐recovery of wool Futon padding was investigated by compression and creep tests. Simulation tests are also carried out to use the minuter model Futon. Fibre crimp was found to…

119

Abstract

Non‐recovery of wool Futon padding was investigated by compression and creep tests. Simulation tests are also carried out to use the minuter model Futon. Fibre crimp was found to be an important parameter to be considered in the non‐recovery of Futon. Futon padding which consists of crimpy fibre has large apparent fibre density and shows less reduction of thickness compared with those made from uncrimpy fibres. The moisture inside and outside the Futon has a large influence on the recovery process.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 6 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 1997

Hiroko Yokura and Masako Niwa

Describes an investigation into the hand of non‐wovens used for nappies under both dry and wet conditions. The mean score of the subjective hand assessments (THVsub) of dry nappy…

273

Abstract

Describes an investigation into the hand of non‐wovens used for nappies under both dry and wet conditions. The mean score of the subjective hand assessments (THVsub) of dry nappy was correlated with their surface properties which are obtained using the single wire U‐shape sensor.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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